Stalling after rebuild

[Tomogchi]

Okay, 94 civic, 1.5 liter (in sig)

I rebuilt the motor, (some of what i have done) cylnder walls got professionally honed, new rings, pistons, rods, bearings, balanced the crank, semi new cam, head got machined, new gaskets, new plugs, wires, etc, etc...

runs great cold. But when shes warm, her idle is very jagged, esp. with the foot on the brake pedal (at a stop light). She will stall if i let her, but tis not every light. might be every 3 or 4 or every light. its reall random as to when it happens. I've noticed that during acceleration, sometimes she will randomly bog down, almost like shes misfiring/not getting air or fuel, and then jump right back to normal. I notice that more on hills than anything.

Now i know im not going to have all the (whopping) 100 ponies/38mpg like i had before, untill everything seats/brakes in; but would that be causing me to have such a jagged idle? Anything over 675 rpms (im guessing, i dont have a tach), she idles fine. Im starting to think my Distributer and or coil its giving out?
Any ideas or opinions on what to check? (yes the timing is set, i did it with the service connect plug jumped, to 10 degrees btdc, like AllData tells me to do.)
Thanks,
Bill

[Tomogchi]

yay... i just love adding double posts.


It doesnt matter if the temperature outside is hot or cold (well....warm or hot considering its summer), Rain or shine, or even with the type of gas i run in her (91 octane, i cant afford $3.35 for 93.... blah.).
There is no ping on acceleration or idle either, if that helps any.

Bill

[The DanSmith]

just a guess, but maybe an intermittent vacuum leak somewhere?

[Tomogchi]

I had thought about that, but upon looking underneath the hood and using my can of carb cleaner, i could not see or hear any bogging down, bubbles or anything else.
I am a little over 1,000miles on this build, and my gas milage is coming back, i avg'd 26 mpg last tank, and 25.X the tank before. I've rechecked the timing, checked the follower assembly(lifters/rocker assembly or w/e its called), and everything is seated correctly and torqued correctly.

im really thinking clogged cat or bad dist.

or maybe I'm too "retated" and over looking something, like the cam timing being 180* off? I dont think the vehicle would run if it did..... but maybe a tooth or two would make an impact as to powerloss?
Bill

[Uncle Paul]

Check engine light on?
If it only does it when it is warmed up (i.e. closed loop) then one of the sensors is reading something off or malfunctioning and it's telling the computer to retard timing, add fuel, take away fuel or something of the sort.

Also, it wouldn't hurt to make sure you are getting good fuel pressure.

[Tomogchi]

No check engine light. It does come on when the ignition is on/car off, but even with the service terminal jumped, the light does not come in (you can hear it go to defualt running values though).
What sensor would i be looking at? theres only like 9 on the entire head.... And she has exceptial fuel pressure, and a new fuel filter. That was one of the first things i checked.
I think i should just start checking readings with a dvom..
Thanks,
bill

[Tomogchi]

Okay. Now i am completely lost.

all sensor readings are within the voltage limits (all the ones that i could read). She seems to be running a tad rich.. But why would she be running rich at her set timing? (10 degrees btdc)
Bill

[Uncle Paul]

Well I am not too sure about 4 cylinder ohc engines with aftermarket cams, but on mine, I had to adjust fuel and timing for idle and part throttle to help lean it out and not "surge".

[Tomogchi]

Thank you. After finally picking up a Haynes manual (couldnt find the damn idle set screw location in all data... i dont know why) i messed with the idle set screw. No more stalling! ya-ya.
Bill