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View Full Version : Basic enclosure design.


badjuju342
03-09-2006, 05:32 AM
Building an enclosure for subs isn't that hard if you have a little patience , forethought and some decent tools . Here's some tips to get you started.

Selecting wood for the enclosure is a key step . 3/4" or 1" MDF is an economical and solid foundation for any enclosure . Marine grade birch is more expensive but slightly better in choice. Regular plywood or particle board is not that great. Plywood has a nasty resonance to it and is very disapointing in terms of sound quality. Particle is not dense enough and not as durable as MDF.The more solid of a wood you use , the stiffer the enclosure will be . Stiffness is a very good thing for enclosures but the box can swell and vibrate causing cancellation of sound frequencies. This results in los of loudness. Spend the extra bucks and buy the proper wood for your enclosure.

Next up, measure and design your box. A lot of folks will measure the exact demensions on the space in the vehicle and begin building. BAD idea. The box might not fit if you do this because you didn't take into account of a raised area of the vehicle or a bracket in the vehicle . You need to study the area carefully even if it looks like it will fit right in. And , measuring for a box in the trunk of a car , you need to make sure you can get it into the trunk after you build it. If you build it too big , it is useless to you. Another thing is to take into account of the travel of the wofers themselves, if you a woofer slamming itself against a body panel , it won't live long . It's a very good idea to deduct at least 1" from all of your measurements of the different sides. You can always make filler panels later if needed.Measure everything twice.

Now that you measured for the outer demensions of the box , it's time to consider the needs of the woofer itself. Most manufacturers include a sheet on the minimum and maximum area of the interior of the box for ideal performance of the woofer. Let's say you have a two chamber box design you wish to build out of 1" MDF for some subs. You've decided your box can be 20" tall , 48" wide and 20" deep . Your interior measurements compensating for the thickness of the wood will be 18" tall (1" each for top and bottom panels) 45" wide (1" each for left side , center divider, and right side) and 18" deep (1" each for front and back) . This gives your interior dimensions. To get the cubic square feet measurement for each woofer you multiply 18" X 22.5" (half of the 45" ) x 18" . Then you divide by 1728 . This gives you your square feet of each chamber. You now know if the box is within spec for your subs.

Once you've got that out of way , it's time to construct the box . You want this thing to be as solid as possible so here's what you do. First off , use woodscrews and wood glue. It's very tempting to use a power nailer or stapler but this causes a joint that can loosen itself over time. A wood screw is a vastly better idea . Glue you panels together along with the screw for a rock solid joint. If your panels in your box are large , some well placed braces are a good idea. Just incorporate them into your densions when figuring the interior of the box. Spend a few extra dollars and buy yourself a countersink drill bit and predrill your holes for the screws. Along with a better appearance , the wood is less likely to split. 1/8" bit is ideal and drill the holes as deep as you can.

Finally , seal everything. Clear silicone caulk does a great job but a nice thick coat of fiberglass resin is even better. Mix small batches of it with the hardener so it does cure before you done coating an area. The resin will also stiffen the box even further along with it superior sealing qualities. Coat the entire panel areas for best results. Thick coats are great .

One last thing , if you decide to go advanced and port your in accordance with the instructions, use a router to radius the edges of your slot port or round port for reduced port noise or "whistle" .

Building a box can be very satisfying and great source of pride if you follow these basic steps and let patience prevail. Enjoy your new box!

PNYKLR2
03-09-2006, 05:17 PM
Good write up, I've made a few boxes in my day. But what about the carpet?!?! I'm lost what will I do with out carpet?!

Tip- Vinyl also makes a great box cover with a more "refined" look.

LWillmann
03-16-2006, 09:16 AM
Vinyl does make a nice covering, but it's more difficult to work with, as it shows imperfections in the enclosure itself more readily than carpet does.

Also, I've seen vinyl work that was BEAU-tiful when new, but 6 months later, it was coming off the surface and had bubbles and such in it. This was from a person who builds boxes for F-bodies professionally too.

I have a box design for a 4th gen F-body, I've built several boxes from this design, and I have found that all of them have sounded wonderful. I have only shared the design with ONE person, and might be willing to post the design here, it's in PDF form, blueprints if you will.

If there are people here who are interested in it, I'll consider posting it.

FogleMotorsports
03-16-2006, 10:03 AM
i got some designs for a box that will make 2 10s sound like 4. its a pretty badass box ill try to post up the specs on it.

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
03-18-2006, 01:35 PM
If your going for the refined look go with painted fiberglass.
I always liked carpet that matched the cars interior

Tailwind
11-19-2006, 09:06 PM
The specs needed are refered to as Theil Small parameters. They are the acoustic compliance measurments and electrical compliance specs for a drivers. They determine box size, ported or closed box design. I have built home speakers and sub cabinets for many years including designing the crossovers and all. There are an extreme number of things needed to pay attention to in order to get the most out of a woofer. . I have all the software and measurement mics if anyone has Thiel Small parameters of a woofer I would be glad to run them through and determine optimum box size and if it should be a ported or closed system. Parameters needed would be. 1. Vas: (The Thiele-Small parameter that measures the overall compliance of a loudspeaker transducer. The Vas is defined as the volume of air that has the same compliance as the driver)
2. Qes: The losses or relative damping (ratio of stored to dissipated energy or ratio of reactive to resistive energy) of a driver at Fs, considering only its electrical (non-mechanical) resistances
3. Qms: The losses or relative damping (ratio of stored to dissipated energy or ratio of reactive to resistive energy) of a driver at Fs, considering only its mechanical (non-electrical) resistances)
4. Fs (natural resonant frequency
5. Le (voice coil resistance)
6. Qts: The losses or relative damping (ratio of stored to dissipated energy or ratio of reactive to resistive energy) of a driver, considering both mechanical and electrical resistances.
7. Re: The DC resistance of a loudspeaker transducer, measured in ohms all of these dont absolutely have to be know quantities but the more you know about them the better box can be designed for any given woofer.
8.Xmax: The measurement of how far a diaphragm can move while still maintaining linear behavior. Traditionally it was defined as the voice coil length minus the air gap height. With the current high-strength motors, significant control over the cone is still possible even without the entire voice coil in the gap.
Most of the time if it is a commonly used woofer I will have the parameters in my database of over 6000 drivers. Let me know if I can help or I can hook you up with the best resources to learn on your own if your willing to read 3 or 4 books and invest in some software. I use Bassbox 6 and Xover Pro 3 as well as a few spreadsheet models to test the results before building anything.

Tailwind
11-19-2006, 09:09 PM
This is my favorite part of any forum generally, Audio. I love great audio. Hope I can be of some real assistance to someone free of charge naturally.