Nitrous Questions

[WS6Tech]

I now some of you guys are running some juice on your rides. My father is interested in putting some on his, and I might get some for the WS6 if my mustang sales soon.

I am a Nitrous noob, but I will tell you what I know (read on the internet, lol)

1.) An LS1 MAF and computer can't compensate and get enough fuel to the engine when a dry shot is used.

2.) Dry is eisier to install, wet is harder.

3.) Window switches and WOT switches are a must.

4.) Colder spark plugs are a must.


Correct me if any of those are wrong, and if I am missing anything, which I know I am.

What types of nitrous setups are you guys running?
Is ECU tuning necessary for Nitrous?

Thanks in advance,
Andrew

[BRADSBLACK_SS]

It Was My Understanding That The Wet Kit Was The Better Kit To Be Going With.

[MrDavid]

Wetter is better. At least, thats what i'm running and i'm happy with it. You could run a dry shot on stock pump and injectors, it probably wouldn't be that safe to go over 100 shot. ECU tuning is not necessary unless you are going to pull some timing from the computer which you might need since your car will be running a stock timing table @ 28*. WOT switch is probably the best way to go and either a window switch or a Progressive controller will keep you from spraying at too low of RPM's and having a backfire. A progressive will be safer on your engine and your rear end, and it will make the nitrous more usable if you don't run DR's or Slicks (maximize traction). You can get a Progressive for just over $200 bucks also.

[The EnforceR]

1) the MAF can add the neccessart fuel for anything up to about a 100-125 shot like dave said.

2) wetter is only harder because you have to run a line off the fuel rail, add another solenoid, and a line on the other side of the noid running to the nozzle. its not hard enough to keep someone from choosing dry over wet and shouldnt justify your preference of wet vs. dry.

3) some people do, but i would never run nitrous w/o a window switch and WOT switch. not only does it keep you from spraying too low, but it cuts the nitrous off before you hit the rev limiter. some people through in a fuel pressure safety switch incase you lose fuel pressure for some reason.

4) NGK TR6 plugs are the most popular plugs people use with nitrous.


the only tuning you need to do, and its not neccesary unless your running a big shot, is pull some WOT timing. i THINK the rule of thumb is to retard timing 2 degrees for ever 100 hp shot of nitrous.

[WS6Tech]

Sweet. Thanks for the replies, this clears up some of the questions I had.

What "kits" do you guys have? Where did you get them and at what price?

[The EnforceR]

you can usually find them used from someone for real cheap. i dont run nitrous yet tho so i cant really tell ya where to go.

[MrDavid]

I have a nitrous express kit. Kits come up for sale all the time on LS1tech which is where I got mine. Dynotune makes a kit espically for a LS1 and it is only $370 brand new. I only paid $400 for my whole kit with warmer, purge, blowdown tube, and bottle included.

[89RABIDFOX]

I Had A Nitrous Exspress Kit. I Have Also Had Nos,compucar,nitrous Works, And A Zex Kit For A Short Period Of Time. None Of Them Gave Me The Power That The Nx Did. I Dont Have Any Now Though.

[MIKE02TA]

I have a Harris Speed Works kit, check out their website they are extremely good on pricing and are very reliable!!!!

[RamAirGod]

NOS Wet kit here

[Eds98WS6]

HSW wet for me in the mail

[The EnforceR]

dopnt stick it in front of the MAF like youstuck the dry kit after the MAF hahaha

[RamAirGod]

Are You Serious?...

[The EnforceR]

yea jon you remember when we use to give ed hell about him having his dry kit AFTER the maf!

[RamAirGod]

I dont remember that BUT DAMN SON... Can you say BOOM SHAK-A-LAKA!

[MIKE02TA]

I dont remember that BUT DAMN SON... Can you say BOOM SHAK-A-LAKA!

BOOM SHAK-A-LAKA is definitely the word for it!!!!!

[Eds98WS6]

i sprayed like 2 times with it like that to, oh well, car was running way rich at the time neways, and we read the directions wrong

[MIKE02TA]

thats ok man i know you were not the only person to every do that

[89RABIDFOX]

Yea Im Sure They Are A Lot Of Other Dumb Asses In The World. Lol.j/k Man

[crumbie]

dry is usually easier to hide, easier to install, and safer IMO.

that being said, both can cause a hiccup. puddling with the wet shot and spraying too much for the mass air to keep up with, with the dry shot. or at least that's what I've read on teh interweb

[The EnforceR]

that is da truff. weve got a dry kit amoungst us that i bet $100 someone could never find if they hadnt seen the car before!

[comptaclone]

that is da truff. weve got a dry kit amoungst us that i bet $100 someone could never find if they hadnt seen the car before!
whos that ..... and is it dry

[The EnforceR]

i forgot it was an LT1 so yea im thinkin it could now be a wet. i cant say who it is tho i dont wanna give it up

[cdavis01]

Shit since everyone is getting spray i think i might just have to get me some again.

[WhiteIrocZ]

Nah there ain't no dry shots around anymore. Just Ed is the only one crazy enough to spray a dry into an elbow after the mass air...hahaha. That was only cooling the air down. I think that wetter is better bc of leaning issues. You know it ain't going lean with proper fuel jets and a pump to keep up. You never know how much that MAF is helping with adding fuel. And a dry doesn't seem to yield as much power as a wet kit, that is just what I have heard though.

[crumbie]

And a dry doesn't seem to yield as much power as a wet kit, that is just what I have heard though.
that's what I've heard, too. but sometimes not having it hit as hard is good b/c it keeps you from blowing the tires off.

[89RABIDFOX]

I Had A 200 Shot Dry Kit On My Car At One Time And My Nx 125 Shot Wet Kit Hit A Lot Harder Than The Dry. A Dry Kit Is For The Hondas. They Suck!!!!

[TurboLSX]

a dry shot is the safest but will require a tune and a wideband on a dyno to ensure the correct air fuel, you can go as high with a dry as you can with a wet. with 28lbs stock injectors that equates to about 450 rwhp total, so if you have 350 rwhp, you can spray a 100 rwhp shot, if you have 400 rwhp n/a then only a 50 shot will work. of course you can always get 42lbs injectors and that will take you to 550-650 rwhp. an upgraded fuel pump is needed for anything over 475-500 rwhp. a single walbro will get you to 600-650 rwhp.

my opinon, dry works better and is safer but cost more to setup, though you can really dial in the a/f with a dry, also you can have an optimal n/a tune and then pull timing when the mass air sees the nitrous. something you cannot due with a wet kit unless you trick the air intake temp sensor with a toggle switch in the car. only problem is if you forget to flip the switch, boom!!,

[TurboLSX]

that's what I've heard, too. but sometimes not having it hit as hard is good b/c it keeps you from blowing the tires off.

rumor, and very untrue.

[LWillmann]

I ran a 125 HP wet kit on my LT1 car. I used a Mallory 685 box for my window switch, and to pull timing. It had a built in dual stage rev limiter (that I didn't use), the window switch, and the timing retard function as well as a start-retard function as well. I also used a WOT switch, and a FPSS set at 38psi so that the noids shut down if there was the slightest problem. I loved it. I went safe with 3 degrees of timing pulled at 125 HP of nitrous. Set my AFR at 12:1 (used a DynoJet Wideband Commander in the Mufflex Y-pipe with gauge in the A-pillar), so I knew I was safe.

I found it was extremely easy to tune the wet kit really. I used the recommended fuel jet and got really close, then just stepped around just a tiny bit larger or smaller on the fuel size and got where I wanted to be.

The NA tune gave me right at 300 RWHP and 350 RWTQ before the built trans, 3000 RPM stall, and nitrous kit. With the trans, stall and nitrous, the rear end would kick sideways at 70MPH when I would hammer it and spray. I loved it!